Week 26:  Feb 27-March 5
Yes, I know it's an odd picture this week, but it nicely illustrates how the planks are fastened to the frames. 

The plank is first fastened with 4" bronze screws (top right), especially in areas where the plank twists or becomes narrow.  All screws are sunk deep into the plank and will eventually be covered over with a small piece of round dowel, called a bung. 

The next step is to drill through the plank and frame and whack in trunnels (top left).  The excess is sawn off so that the trunnel is flush with the plank (directly below the first trunnel).  Then a sharpened cold chisel is used to split the end of the flush-cut trunnel and a wooden wedge is inserted (middle, right).  The wedge is finally tapped in, which forces the trunnel to spread at the end, firmly locking it in place (the four examples at the bottom of the picture). 

(The horizontal seams in the picture are the bevels between the individual planks -but that's another story)!   

Week 28:  March 13-19
It is important that the planks seat well against the frames.  Since the boat is curved in three dimensions the frames need to be angled slightly differently so there are no gaps between the plank and where it sits against each frame.   Much of this work was already done when the futtock pieces were cut at an angle on the big bandsaw.  However, the final angling and smoothing still needs to be done before the plank is put on.  

In the picture, Nate is using an adze (kind of like an ax, but with the blade going sideways instead of up-and-down) to "dub" or smooth the frames.  This is called "dubbing the frames."  (Does that mean Nate is a dubber)?

Week 29:  March 20-26
It's called "hanging a plank" and the crew have been hard at it for the past month. 

It's quick work, especially in winter because the plank needs to be in position before it cools and stiffens up again.  Everyone knows his role and the clamps and tools are set out ready to go.  At the signal, the plank is pulled from the steambox and quickly put in position against the frames.  The inward end is clamped.  Then more clamps are added along the length of the plank as it bends to take the shape of the vessel.  In the picture, Bernie and Francis (wearing gloves because the plank is hot) maneuver, twist and pound the plank up against the previous one.  John (or at least his hands!) is getting ready to add the next clamp. 

After a few final whacks with a sledge hammer, the plank is in position.  Then the process is repeated with the corresponding plank on the other side of the boat.  Now out come the drills to screw the board in place and seat it tight against the dubbed frames.  Later, trunnels will be pounded through the plank and frames, cut, and both ends wedged to firmly fasten everything together.   

Note:  repeat above process until entire vessel is planked. 

Week 30:  March 27-April 2
Our new vocabulary word this week is spiling, which is the process to figure out the shape of each plank.  Unlike siding a house where all the boards are the same and consistent width, planks on a three-dimensional, curved boat are -you're way ahead of me here- also curved. 

This means that for a given 1 1/2" thick white oak plank the two ends and middle may all be different widths.  Did I mention that there are probably no straight sides either, but that the plank curves up at the ends?  Naturally, each plank shape is unique as well.  However, there is some good news: only one side of the boat needs to be spiled as both sides are symmetrical.   

In the picture, Harold is using a temporary board to measure and record the distances to the edge of the previous plank on each frame.  He will then lay the board on a rough-cut plank, mark all the points, bend a batten, draw the line, and cut out the resulting shape.  A second, plank is made for the opposite side of the boat.  Both are given a coat of raw linseed oil and are then ready to go in the steambox. 

Week 31:  April 3-9
The crew reached another milestone this week:  the hanging of the "shutter plank."

The shutter plank is the last plank to go on the boat.  ISABELLA is now completely planked!  We hung 12 planks on Friday (a new record for this boat), including the last one at about 6:00 p.m.  Did I mention it rained all afternoon?  We were soaking wet. 

Naturally, this traditional event called for some traditional celebration.  A good time was had by all -until someone passed out kazoos and four of us started to play Led Zep's Stairway to Heaven, but perhaps I'll leave out those photos... 

Week 32:  April 10-16
To keep water from getting into the boat, Capt. Chuck, Harold's dad, pounds cotton caulking in between the planks.  The cotton will swell to ten times its size, filling in any gaps.  A second layer of oakum, a stringy, rope-like material will be added afterwards.  Then putty will be applied over the seams to help keep it all in place. 

Here Charlie is using a home-made (naturally!) "traditional" caulking mallet.  Slits in the head produce a ringing sound when striking the caulking iron.  Lore has it that in times past wives could tell where their husbands were working by the distinctive ring of the mallets echoing up from the shipyards.

Fortunately for Charlie his mallet doesn't ring.   

Week 33:  April 17-23
Doesn't this look like fun! 

After the planks are fastened, bunged (i.e. the screw holes are covered with wooden plugs), and caulked the hull is smoothed.  The first step nowadays is to use a large powered hand plane.  Final smoothing is done with a disk sander.  This is very dusty work.

In the picture, John is wearing full head-gear with a filtered, compressor-fed respirator so he doesn't breathe in all the dust.  The light colored planks have been sanded smooth; the darker areas still need to be sanded.  This is very tiring work.  Afterwards, the planks are painted so they do not dry out as quickly. 

Week 34:  April 24-30
Francis and John get the day's instructions from Harold. 

The crew is starting to work on the deck.  Gently curved deck beams (like the one in front of Harold) were clamped and laminated on a large jig, then cut and planed smooth.  They will span the width of the vessel, resting on the sheer clamps -the unpainted horizontal beam fastened to each side of the boat. 

The red paint on the interior helps to preserve and protect the wood.